Stained glass window featuring St. Nicolas in the abbey
A bit of whimsy, legend, and rhyme to start. In a corner of Lonlay's ancient abbey that I had not noticed before, I was startled to see three men in a tub sitting at the feet of St. Nicolas! What could be the meaning of this?
We all know a variation of the old English rhyme, that usually goes like this:
Rub-a-dub-dub, three men in a tub,
And who do you think they be?
The butcher, the baker, the candlestick maker,
And all put out to sea.
But according to most academics, the original rhyme dates back to the 14th century, and referred to three "maids" in a tub:
Hey! rub-a-dub, ho! rub-a-dub, three maids in a tub,
And who do you think were there?
The butcher, the baker, the candlestick-maker,
And all of them gone to the fair.
This version makes sense historically because evidently, in medieval times, the fairs sometimes had "peep shows" where men could view naked women in a tub! The inclusion of the three varied professions of these men suggests that everyone and his brother was partaking of such entertainment.
We all know a variation of the old English rhyme, that usually goes like this:
Rub-a-dub-dub, three men in a tub,
And who do you think they be?
The butcher, the baker, the candlestick maker,
And all put out to sea.
But according to most academics, the original rhyme dates back to the 14th century, and referred to three "maids" in a tub:
Hey! rub-a-dub, ho! rub-a-dub, three maids in a tub,
And who do you think were there?
The butcher, the baker, the candlestick-maker,
And all of them gone to the fair.
This version makes sense historically because evidently, in medieval times, the fairs sometimes had "peep shows" where men could view naked women in a tub! The inclusion of the three varied professions of these men suggests that everyone and his brother was partaking of such entertainment.
But this abbey vitrine does seem to have males in that tub ... and St. Nicolas? Surely not a peep show kind of guy. So, back to Google...
Nicolas was a real person who lived roughly between the years 270 to 343. He must have had a very strong and holy presence, as many miracles were attributed to him, and for centuries after his death, people were squabbling over his bones, moving them from one city to another.
An early Christian bishop from an area (Myra) that is now part of modern-day Turkey, Nicolas came from a well-to-do family, but gave away his wealth. One possibly true story about him was that he surreptitiously provided three purses of gold to an impoverished merchant by dropping them into his window (not the chimney!) over three successive nights. He did this to provide dowries for the man's three daughters, so that they did not have to become prostitutes.
A second story that is likely true is that bishop Nicolas once intervened to prevent the execution of three innocent men. That incident appears to have been retold throughout the Middle Ages, but enhanced many times over through drama and exaggeration. The most popular version of this story tells of a conniving butcher who killed three boys and put their remains in a pickling tub. St. Nicolas was said to have demanded the contents of the tub, and to have brought the three boys back to life!
So impressive and vivid was this tale of a miracle, and so well-travelled, that apparently there are representations of St. Nicolas and the boys in the tub to be found all over Europe in tapestries, paintings, sculptures - and in stained glass. So now you know.
Nicolas was a real person who lived roughly between the years 270 to 343. He must have had a very strong and holy presence, as many miracles were attributed to him, and for centuries after his death, people were squabbling over his bones, moving them from one city to another.
An early Christian bishop from an area (Myra) that is now part of modern-day Turkey, Nicolas came from a well-to-do family, but gave away his wealth. One possibly true story about him was that he surreptitiously provided three purses of gold to an impoverished merchant by dropping them into his window (not the chimney!) over three successive nights. He did this to provide dowries for the man's three daughters, so that they did not have to become prostitutes.
A second story that is likely true is that bishop Nicolas once intervened to prevent the execution of three innocent men. That incident appears to have been retold throughout the Middle Ages, but enhanced many times over through drama and exaggeration. The most popular version of this story tells of a conniving butcher who killed three boys and put their remains in a pickling tub. St. Nicolas was said to have demanded the contents of the tub, and to have brought the three boys back to life!
So impressive and vivid was this tale of a miracle, and so well-travelled, that apparently there are representations of St. Nicolas and the boys in the tub to be found all over Europe in tapestries, paintings, sculptures - and in stained glass. So now you know.
From Wikipedia - Illustration of Saint Nicolas resurrecting the three butchered children.
From the "Grandes Heures d'Anne de Bretagne" (created between 1503 and 1508).
Now, let's go back into the abbey at Lonlay
From the "Grandes Heures d'Anne de Bretagne" (created between 1503 and 1508).
Now, let's go back into the abbey at Lonlay
We lit a candle in a corner of the abbey in this granite well, then took photos of the animals and people we found hiding in the corners of the side chapels. I can't really say what they all are meant to represent.
A gnome?
A cat?
Woman's face in a wimple?
This one above is said to be a bat.
A serene lady with frog faces circling underneath?
One wonders how much some of these fantastical creatures in the capitals may have been altered by poor restorations, by WW II bombs or other damage. The identity of so many seems unclear to me.
A woman, possibly the Virgin Mary, atop a beast, and reaching out to a frog person/alien
This one is my very favorite so far. A small human sculpting hand, like that of a potter or sculptor, delicately and humbly adding to a creation above a brooding animal face.
An Aztec or Mayan style head over a capital ringed with alien or frog faces. Curiously, this same type of head is repeated outside the abbey...
...in a cubby surrounded by some of the oldest arches, and
...then in a larger form on the outside of the main building that now houses the mairie and doctor's offices. The source and style of sculpture of these heads remains a complete mystery to me.
Though the head on the outside of the abbey wall has teeth, I don't think it is meant to be a "tarasque," the medieval monster who devoured people, as most of the heads inside the abbey are benign.
Though the head on the outside of the abbey wall has teeth, I don't think it is meant to be a "tarasque," the medieval monster who devoured people, as most of the heads inside the abbey are benign.
The tarasque of Montmajour Abbey near Arles - munching on a human in its 12th century cloister - (must see that someday). Photo from Wikipedia.
While it would be hard to outdo the gruesome tarasque of Montmajour, the Lonlay l'Abbaye abbey has its share of disturbing creatures, both in stone and in wood - like this eagle atop an oddly placed snake. One wonders what exactly its sculptor meant to say, and to whom.
Just outside, under the medieval arches, we found an ancient gate that immediately brought to mind the old English word "gaol," and a door that clearly had not been opened in a long time!
Entrance to the "gaol" or jail
Spidery door
But enough of the abbey, let's move on to the village fête!
But enough of the abbey, let's move on to the village fête!
Once a year, near the end of August, the village of Lonlay l'Abbaye traditionally opens its arms to all to celebrate the end of summer in a big way. In 2020 and 2021, the fête had to be cancelled because of Covid restrictions. That meant that our 2022 festival was long anticipated and desired by all the people in the surrounding villages, as well as by the inhabitants of Lonlay.
Our good friend Ashami (Pipkin's favorite person) came down from Paris specifically to enjoy the fair with us and the next day's vide-grenier. We all had a great time!
Our good friend Ashami (Pipkin's favorite person) came down from Paris specifically to enjoy the fair with us and the next day's vide-grenier. We all had a great time!
On Saturday the kiddie rides and carnival games were set up, along with a big bouncy house near the Mairie.
The stuff of dreams for little ones
There were sausages and crêpes on offer, and a stand selling wine and beer. A local band set up and provided upbeat music into the night.
We were quite impressed with how the carnival organizers were able to roll huge container trucks into the small village. Each opened up into a ride, an arcade, or a fully operational electronic game center. This must be a big business in rural France.
The festivities and fun lasted into the night. Once darkness fell, close to 10:00 pm, the fire department and its band led the children with paper lanterns through the village streets. We adult participants followed them to the village green, where we saw a spectacular fireworks show!
Just after daybreak the next morning, we began to hear people driving in to set up their tables at their assigned numbered locations all through the streets and squares of the village. Exceptionally, the bakery and bar/tabac were open all day that Sunday, and the Relais, our village restaurant, began serving tripe at 8:00 am. (We passed on that).
The vide-grenier is like a huge rummage sale. There were hundreds of people selling items and hundreds, maybe thousands more strolling among the tables, bargaining and buying in the village green, the square in front of our house, the field behind the abbey, a parking lot across from the market, and in every corner that was not already taken by the fairground equipment.
The vide-grenier is like a huge rummage sale. There were hundreds of people selling items and hundreds, maybe thousands more strolling among the tables, bargaining and buying in the village green, the square in front of our house, the field behind the abbey, a parking lot across from the market, and in every corner that was not already taken by the fairground equipment.
Joseph joked that it seemed likely that those who bought items one year would be selling them back to their neighbors at the vide-grenier the next year!
Most of the tables were selling gently used toys, household goods, sports and gardening equipment, but there were a few booths selling new items and handmade crafts as well.
The beverages bar continued to do brisk business throughout Sunday, quenching the thirst of the bargain hunters, while the rides and games, sausages and crêpes continued for the families until it was nearly dark again. The weather was perfect throughout, and the two-day festival was a grand success.
The next few days were very quiet in the village, like the calm after a storm. The folks who had had their goods for sale packed everything up, each speck of debris was cleaned and collected, the carnival trucks folded their sides and lumbered off. A happy exhaustion set in. We visited with some of the villagers we know, and enjoyed the peace and quiet.
The charming family that runs the Relais reopened with their regular menu - sans tripe. We were pleased to be able to go back several times and to enjoy their outdoor terrace while the good weather held.
We forgot to take a photo of our delicious main courses (fish and steak), but after all, appetizers and dessert are what restaurants are really all about, right? The pannacotta with red fruit sauce was indescribably good!
We needed rain here in the north of France, and it was predicted for almost every day, but though the storm clouds came, they also went, without delivering much precipitation. The early evening skies were beautiful.
Meanwhile, back at our house, we were pleased as punch with some of the improvements that had been made while we had been away...
Meanwhile, back at our house, we were pleased as punch with some of the improvements that had been made while we had been away...
A small antique chandelier that I had "won" at auction in Paris's famous Drouot auction house for only 20 euros (but that cost over 200 euros to rewire!) was installed in the bedroom by our super French team.
The French detail team: Ruzdi and Jean-Luc
Hooks were installed on the wall near the front door to hold jackets, coats and bags.
Under the stairs, the once dreary and dusty brick "cave" was transformed with a new cement floor, wallboard and shelving into a perfect clean space to keep wine and other pantry items.
At our request, they mounted a fire extinguisher inside the door (right across from the mini kitchen) and placed hooks to hold Pipkin's leashes and harness.
Thanks to a birthday gift from my dear friend Michele, we have a wine rack in the little cave, and a handsome navy blue laundry basket that will hold a set of sheets as well as our regular washing.
We were finally able to get four dining chairs and a carpet for our main room, so we have almost everything we need here now. As wonderful as it is to always return to Paris, we are finding it harder to leave Lonlay l'Abbaye each time, as it feels so much like a cozy home.
And autumn is here already!
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