The road to Beauchêne

A rare sunny day in winter along the road from Lonlay to Beauchêne

We took the train out to spend a week or so in Lonlay l'Abbaye during each of the winter months. Many days were quite frosty, and freezing at night. Each time we arrived, it took almost 48 hours to warm up the house, even when we had left the heaters set to 15 degrees between visits.

​The ambient weather was honestly pretty miserable - similar to what we had been experiencing in Paris since Christmastime - an almost constant drizzle of rain accompanied by very cold temperatures and wind that blew the rain into your face seemingly in no matter which direction you walked. Consequently, I have very few photos to post from those visits!

Cold rains in Lonlay l'Abbaye

Even with drab weather outside, it was still a pleasure to cocoon in our tiny house, to visit with the Grimmers in January, with M and S regularly at their tabac/boulangerie, and to have delicious meals at the Relais. ​

Pipkin's favorite spot in winter

 First courses at the Relais de l'Abbaye - Perigourdine salad and salmon rillettes

I gave up wine (and stronger spirits) for Lent, so when we visited the Relais, I ordered "cidre doux," thinking it was non-alcoholic. Well, it turns out that only in America is there a "cider" that is completely non-alcoholic - a holdover from Prohibition. In France, and apparently in all of the rest of the logical world, cider is fermented apple juice, though the alcoholic content will vary. So, I did not make it through Lent completely alcohol-free, but with good intentions.

Joseph and Pipkin in the garden behind the abbey

Whenever the rain let up, Pipkin was very happy to be outside with us.

And we took some drives through the countryside.

Big sky country - Normandy style

As we explore more of this area of Normandy, we are fascinated with the history of its ancient towns and villages. I recently came across a summary of the history of Beauchêne, one of our close neighboring villages, and was quite surprised to learn that its name can likely be traced all the way back to the early 12th century.

In 1106, two sons of William the Conqueror were at odds and battling each other for control of territory in Normandy. Henri Beauclerc, then King Henry I of England, was one of those sons. Henry was called "Beauclerc," meaning "fine scholar," allegedly because he could read and write.  He was at war with his elder brother, the Duke of Normandy, Robert Curthose (or Courtheuse "short stockings" - indicating that he was short in stature).

Why, you ask, was Henry the King of England, rather than Robert, as Robert was the eldest brother? Well, it's complicated. Suffice it for now to say that Robert had issues.

In 1077 Robert had rebelled against his father William, and in 1079 defeated him in a battle, wounding William and knocking him off his horse - supposedly before realizing he was in direct combat with his father. There was no love lost.

Entrance to a forest by Eugène Bléry - Public Domain - National Gallery of Art - Washington DC

So, back to 1106. A manuscript from Mont St. Michel says that Henry Beauclerc was marching from Domfront to Tinchebray with his army and a priest, Vital of Mortain. (Vital later founded the Abbey of Savigny, and is now known as Saint Vital or Saint Vitalis). Vital tried to reconcile Henry and his brother Robert to no avail.

Henry's troops passed along the edges of a thick forest (la Lande Pourrie) in the area that now encompasses Beauchêne, on the side closest to Lonlay. When they paused for a rest, Vital said mass there under a grand tree in the presence of the army. It is thought that it was this "fine oak" or "beau chêne" that became the namesake for a settlement there.

Battle of Tinchebray by the Rohan Master (name given to anonymous illustrator of the time) - Bibliotheque Nationale de France - Public Domain

At Tinchebray (also spelled Tinchebrai at that time) on September 28, 1106, King Henry and his knights decisively trounced Robert's men, killing or capturing most of them. Robert Curthose was taken back to England and kept imprisoned for the rest of his life, dying in Cardiff Castle in 1134.

Henry Beauclerc ruled over both England and Normandy until his death in 1135.

The road leading north to Beauchêne just outside of Lonlay l'Abbaye

It is humbling to think that when we walk or drive on this one-lane road, we are likely following the same path taken by warring parties of the 12th century, as well as by American GIs during World War II.

The "rivière" Égrenne flows along the road to Beauchêne.

In winter months, you can see the water through the trees. A calming and timeless sight.

In warmer months, the mighty oaks may block your view. They still grow here, though not in the same profusion as in the 12th century.

This is part of Beauchêne today. It seems to be primarily a collection of well-maintained individual farms and homesteads. Perhaps there is more of a commercial center somewhere that I missed on this visit. I took this photo from in front of the church, which is set on a hill near the mayor's office.

A bucolic setting all around

It is difficult to tell how old the Beauchêne church is. It does not have an ancient feeling, and its stained glass is all post-WWII, but it could be that it was bombed and reconstructed after the war.

Several stained glass windows commemorate local citizens who died during World War II. Presuming that most of them were soldiers and resistants, I was touched to see a woman's name, Therese Prunier, in the lower right quadrant of this window. I would like to learn her story one day.

To the right of the nave, at an altar to St. Joseph, are more names inscribed under the legend "Morts Pour la France." These are likely the names of men who died for France in the first World War.

Some of the surnames are the same that I saw mentioned from the time of the French Revolution in a history of Beauchêne. For example, Beauchêne's second mayor after the Revolution was a Denis Aumont, later followed by a Jean Lelièvre in 1792.

Sadly, we can see here that a P. Lelièvre is commemorated as having given his life in World War I, along with not one, but four Aumonts. Were they all brothers? Cousins? We can only imagine the painful cost of war in small French communes such as Beauchêne.

At the bottom of the same side altar is this poignant bas-relief of Christ presumably taking a fatally wounded soldier to heaven. The uniform strongly suggests that this is a World War I soldier, with his leg wrappings instead of boots.

At the side of the church in Beauchêne is a structure that looks very much like a stable. I'm unclear as to what its function is. At Christmastime, it may well be configured into a "manger" for the Holy Family, as Beauchêne is well known in these parts for its exuberant Christmas displays.

This Youtube video from a few years ago will give you an idea of the work that the people of Beauchêne put into their Christmas decorations! They are always local award winners.

Speaking of celebrations ... Back in Paris, we were thrilled to see the recreated spire of Notre Dame unveiled from its scaffolding, topped with a golden rooster. Current plans say that the cathedral of Notre Dame will be reopened to the public in late December of this year. That will be a moment!

Another March celebration of sorts: the return of the Parisian Waiters' Race, aka La Course des Cafés. An amiable 2 km fast walk competition through the streets of Paris whilst managing to carry (and not spill) a glass of water, a coffee, and a croissant on their trays.

Gearing up in the shadow of Notre Dame

The race is open to men and women alike, all ages and physical conditions.

This waiter from the legendary Tour d'Argent restaurant could not resist adding a rose.

A fun experience for the participants and for all of us onlookers as well

Welcome, Spring!