Time passes quickly whenever we are in Lonlay l'Abbaye, and yet time stands still. What we appreciate so much is the peaceful feeling of being welcomed home, to this very civilized and well-cared for corner of the world.
It is a place for us to rest and to plan, but also to explore, as we do in Paris, because there is so much to learn and to see in every part of France.
Whenever I try to reflect on just a few months past, it all seems like a collection of dreams.
The daily weather is a dreamscape. In late spring, there were rainbows...
It is a place for us to rest and to plan, but also to explore, as we do in Paris, because there is so much to learn and to see in every part of France.
Whenever I try to reflect on just a few months past, it all seems like a collection of dreams.
The daily weather is a dreamscape. In late spring, there were rainbows...
Double rainbow near the abbey
Rainbow over the green and the old cider press
...and then a menacing cloudbank rolling toward us that seemed alive!
Meanwhile, back in Paris...
Meanwhile, back in Paris...
A camel parade - Chateau de Vincennes
Isn't this something that seems odd enough to be a dream? Like an opening ceremony for a dromedary olympics! A quirky parade of camels, representing dozens of nations, marched east of Paris in April from the Chateau de Vincennes and wound through the Bois de Vincennes.
The event was the passion project of the mayor of a small French village (Janvry) who loves camels. He wanted his international camel parade to be around the Eiffel Tower, but the city ultimately chose a more bucolic site.
The event was the passion project of the mayor of a small French village (Janvry) who loves camels. He wanted his international camel parade to be around the Eiffel Tower, but the city ultimately chose a more bucolic site.
Well, we enjoyed it. We even saw a camel from the USA, though I'm not sure why her flag has 48 stars.
The Bois de Vincennes is an urban forest, a green dream if you will, about three times larger than Central Park in New York City.
The Bois has about 50 miles of paths and riding trails, several man-made lakes, a zoological park of endangered species, a botanical garden, an ornithological reserve, several restaurants, and even a nudist area. (No, I have no idea where in the Bois that is!)
The Bois has about 50 miles of paths and riding trails, several man-made lakes, a zoological park of endangered species, a botanical garden, an ornithological reserve, several restaurants, and even a nudist area. (No, I have no idea where in the Bois that is!)
Still in Paris, an architectural dream: the gorgeous courtyard garden of the Carnavalet Museum, a perfect spot for a cold glass of wine or a Badoit on a warm day.
A 15th century dream: At the Louvre, we waited in line to see an exhibit of Jan van Eyck's works, including this recently restored masterpiece commissioned around 1435 by Chancellor Rolin of Burgundy, a very rich and powerful man of the era. That is the Chancellor on the left, being blessed by the infant Jesus.
Though you would need a magnifying glass to see them, there are incredibly tiny people, soldiers, horses and carts, and the like, distinguishable in miniature, even on the bridge and in the city of the distant landscape beyond the principals.
The Louvre website currently features a short video with an art expert and restorer explaining some of the work:
https://www.louvre.fr/louvreplus/video-la-restauration-de-la-vierge-du-chancelier-rolin-chef-d-oeuvre-de-jan-van-eyck?autoplay
Though you would need a magnifying glass to see them, there are incredibly tiny people, soldiers, horses and carts, and the like, distinguishable in miniature, even on the bridge and in the city of the distant landscape beyond the principals.
The Louvre website currently features a short video with an art expert and restorer explaining some of the work:
https://www.louvre.fr/louvreplus/video-la-restauration-de-la-vierge-du-chancelier-rolin-chef-d-oeuvre-de-jan-van-eyck?autoplay
Upon leaving the Louvre, we caught a glimpse of fantastic sky over the courtyard pyramid.
A Technicolor Dream - "Luminiscence" at St. Eustache
One evening in Paris, Joseph and I went to see a special sound and light show created by the group "Luminiscence" (yes, not luminescence) in the massive church of St. Eustache.
Creative displays of light shifted and changed as they highlighted and followed the gothic structural bones of the church, along with music and some narration (in French) relating high points of St. Eustache's long history.
Construction of the present church began in 1532, took more than a hundred years to build, and was added onto even after that. Louis XIV, the Sun King, had his first communion in St. Eustache. Louis's court composer Lully was married here, and the elegant tomb of Louis's long-serving and brilliant minister, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, is in a side altar.
Playwright Molière had his baptism here, as well as his funeral. Mozart, Liszt and Berlioz are only a few of the famous composers to have graced St. Eustache and made use of its magnificent organ. For centuries St. Eustache was the parish church for the workers of Les Halles, the "Belly of Paris," the city's wholesale market for all manner of foodstuffs, until the food markets were moved outside of Paris to Rungis in the 1970s.
In the early days of the AIDS epidemic, St. Eustache was the first and only church in Paris to offer help to AIDS victims, and to conduct their funerals. It remains a connection point for the LGBTQ+ community and also ministers to the poor.
The "Luminiscence" experience was quite impressive. I only captured a few short videos, but will share them here to give you an idea of the show, in hopes that you may be able to see another Luminiscence production near you.
In the last segment, the ceiling of the church seems to disappear, leaving us to see shooting stars in the heavens through the graceful arches of St. Eustache.
(As always, once you start each video, you can expand its size by clicking in the lower right-hand corner of the image)
Construction of the present church began in 1532, took more than a hundred years to build, and was added onto even after that. Louis XIV, the Sun King, had his first communion in St. Eustache. Louis's court composer Lully was married here, and the elegant tomb of Louis's long-serving and brilliant minister, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, is in a side altar.
Playwright Molière had his baptism here, as well as his funeral. Mozart, Liszt and Berlioz are only a few of the famous composers to have graced St. Eustache and made use of its magnificent organ. For centuries St. Eustache was the parish church for the workers of Les Halles, the "Belly of Paris," the city's wholesale market for all manner of foodstuffs, until the food markets were moved outside of Paris to Rungis in the 1970s.
In the early days of the AIDS epidemic, St. Eustache was the first and only church in Paris to offer help to AIDS victims, and to conduct their funerals. It remains a connection point for the LGBTQ+ community and also ministers to the poor.
The "Luminiscence" experience was quite impressive. I only captured a few short videos, but will share them here to give you an idea of the show, in hopes that you may be able to see another Luminiscence production near you.
In the last segment, the ceiling of the church seems to disappear, leaving us to see shooting stars in the heavens through the graceful arches of St. Eustache.
(As always, once you start each video, you can expand its size by clicking in the lower right-hand corner of the image)
Now, back to Normandy, to a structure that predates even St. Eustache...
The Devil's Table
Perhaps more in the category of a slightly menacing, rather than pastoral, dream in the countryside: the "Devil's Table." This ancient site near the small town of Passais is only about 20 minutes drive from Lonlay l'Abbaye.
Passais is said to have been so named because it was on a route for safe passage, where one could "passer" from the old Duchy of Normandy to what was then the wider kingdom of France. But this construction of massive stones is far older than the medieval Duchy.
Passais is said to have been so named because it was on a route for safe passage, where one could "passer" from the old Duchy of Normandy to what was then the wider kingdom of France. But this construction of massive stones is far older than the medieval Duchy.
Truth be told, this is a remarkable Neolithic tomb site, dating back four to five thousand years! In the early 1990s archeologists examined and restored the stones (to what they determined had been their original positions before shifting and falling trees had moved them). The archeologists found pieces of bell-shaped pottery here that they recognized as belonging to an ancient civilization (referred to as the "Beaker culture" or the "Bell Beaker people") from the third millenium B.C.
You can't help but be affected psychologically, at least a bit, by the name "Devil's Table." It makes you feel just a bit uneasy in the presence of this impressive sculpture. This may well have been the intention of early priests who wanted to discourage their Christian flocks from visiting "pagan" sites such as these in the woods. Legends told of visitors who were enticed to take fairy coins or devil's silver scattered on the table, but then were beaten, disappeared, or lost their minds.
We did not stay long at the site. There was something a bit disquieting about it and its relative isolation. Pipkin found the area very exciting. I had to hold her to keep her from searching for devils in the tomb!
You can't help but be affected psychologically, at least a bit, by the name "Devil's Table." It makes you feel just a bit uneasy in the presence of this impressive sculpture. This may well have been the intention of early priests who wanted to discourage their Christian flocks from visiting "pagan" sites such as these in the woods. Legends told of visitors who were enticed to take fairy coins or devil's silver scattered on the table, but then were beaten, disappeared, or lost their minds.
We did not stay long at the site. There was something a bit disquieting about it and its relative isolation. Pipkin found the area very exciting. I had to hold her to keep her from searching for devils in the tomb!
In Lonlay l'Abbaye, after a very wet winter and spring, the apple trees and flowering bushes began to bloom. Every corner of the village was transformed. Even the low walls were bursting with small flowers, and many villagers grew varieties of their own in yards and windowboxes.
Monsieur Christian Derouet, the mayor of Lonlay, is indefatigable. He always has a project (or 5 of them!) underway in the village, having successfully petitioned the local and national governments for funding for regular improvements.
When we came back to Lonlay, we saw that one of the mayor's improvements was resurfacing the square in front of our tiny house. To that end, it was being attacked by a somewhat surreal machine that chewed up the pavement as it was driven, and simultaneously spewed the detritus into a dump truck being driven just ahead.
When we came back to Lonlay, we saw that one of the mayor's improvements was resurfacing the square in front of our tiny house. To that end, it was being attacked by a somewhat surreal machine that chewed up the pavement as it was driven, and simultaneously spewed the detritus into a dump truck being driven just ahead.
Even more impressive than the powerful machine was the way the workmen helped huge delivery trucks, busses and farmer's tractors navigate around their ongoing efforts.
At close of day, the square looked as if it had been scorched by the setting sun and smoky clouds.
Now it is pristine, having been repaved and restriped (allowing space for slightly larger modern cars), and is back to regular use.
A mailbox!
New bathroom cabinet for extra storage
Our simple dreams: Preparing for a visit from our daughter in June, we had a few projects of our own to attend to in Lonlay - including replacing a floor board in the attic, assembling and mounting a bathroom cabinet, finding a proper-sized mailbox, and having it mounted (onto granite!) on the outside of the house.
We were lucky to have had a referral from friends who pointed us to Greg, an accomplished expat now living in France, and an excellent handyman.
We were lucky to have had a referral from friends who pointed us to Greg, an accomplished expat now living in France, and an excellent handyman.
Greg was also able to devise a plan for hanging our fabric copy of a medieval tapestry. I had bought the tapestry for only 30 euros at Drouot. We had it cleaned and prepared to hang with velcro, but had no means to put it up. We are very pleased to have it hanging over the bed now in Lonlay.
Source: https://www.heraldry-wiki.com/wiki/Lonlay-l'Abbaye
One more change to our interior. You may remember that the heraldic symbol for Lonlay l'Abbaye going back hundreds of years is a wolf. Well, I bought this door knocker before I remembered that our current door is made of aluminum, so it would not suit. We decided instead that we would place him on the rustic door to the attic, and we think he looks quite handsome there!
A dreamy moment in Lonlay in June - Can you hear the nearby sheep?
As spring turned into summer, the village green offered us a soft landing each time we returned from weeks in Paris. We were delighted to have a visit from our daughter. Much of our time with her was spent in Paris, enjoying the museums and cafés. There was a night at the Garnier to see an avant-garde ballet, a concert in the Sainte Chapelle, and even a day of horseback riding near Senlis.
We only spent a couple of nights in Lonlay, on our way to and from her most exciting suggestion: the Puy du Fou! https://www.puydufou.com/france/en/must-see-france.
We had heard about Puy du Fou before, but I had the vague impression it was a theme park in the Vendee region only focused on medieval times. It is so much more than that!
There are no rides, but a number of spectacular shows relating to different historical periods in French history, from Romans to Vikings, Joan of Arc to the Musketeers, and more. Moreover, unlike many theme parks, the surrounds are very green, so there is lots of shade, with many areas to relax in and to have a snack, as well as some full service restaurants. With our daughter carefully planning a schedule, we did not have to wait in any of the lines for more than 10 to 20 minutes before entering to ample seating.
In the summer, each show is put on several times a day, though you really need at least two days to see most of them. The level of stunt work, sword fighting, horsemanship, animal training and the quality of music for each show is extraordinary. Many of the sets transform themselves in unexpected ways.
I would not want to spoil the experience by showing too much, but here are just a few glimpses of The Sign of Triumph, held in a rather convincing Roman coliseum. Where else these days can you see a Roman parade or a chariot race?
We only spent a couple of nights in Lonlay, on our way to and from her most exciting suggestion: the Puy du Fou! https://www.puydufou.com/france/en/must-see-france.
We had heard about Puy du Fou before, but I had the vague impression it was a theme park in the Vendee region only focused on medieval times. It is so much more than that!
There are no rides, but a number of spectacular shows relating to different historical periods in French history, from Romans to Vikings, Joan of Arc to the Musketeers, and more. Moreover, unlike many theme parks, the surrounds are very green, so there is lots of shade, with many areas to relax in and to have a snack, as well as some full service restaurants. With our daughter carefully planning a schedule, we did not have to wait in any of the lines for more than 10 to 20 minutes before entering to ample seating.
In the summer, each show is put on several times a day, though you really need at least two days to see most of them. The level of stunt work, sword fighting, horsemanship, animal training and the quality of music for each show is extraordinary. Many of the sets transform themselves in unexpected ways.
I would not want to spoil the experience by showing too much, but here are just a few glimpses of The Sign of Triumph, held in a rather convincing Roman coliseum. Where else these days can you see a Roman parade or a chariot race?
Puy du Fou is in western France, about an hour from the Atlantic coast and from Nantes. Advance reservations many months in advance are strongly recommended, both for the theme park and for the area hotels.
A special evening show that is only produced a few times each summer, the Cinéscénie, is held in a separate venue. Covering a great span of Vendéen history, it features a cast of thousands, including the talented performers from Puy du Fou along with hundreds of local people who volunteer to join in these productions. Highly recommended.
A special evening show that is only produced a few times each summer, the Cinéscénie, is held in a separate venue. Covering a great span of Vendéen history, it features a cast of thousands, including the talented performers from Puy du Fou along with hundreds of local people who volunteer to join in these productions. Highly recommended.
Midsummer dinner
Midsummer gifts
Midsummer concert
More lovely dreamlike moments - the delicious fresh produce of France, thoughtful gifts from our friends the Bohus in the village (poiré, cider, and cactus that will do without watering during our weeks away from Lonlay l'Abbaye), and an enjoyable early evening soft rock concert and apéro on the village green!
Throughout the summer in Lonlay, we are share our dreams and our windows with the busy swallows. These "hirondelles de fenêtre" are charming to watch, and they keep down the populations of summer insect pests.
Versailles - Individual Olympic Jumping Final
Laura Kraut's ride
The 2024 Olympics were a dream come true for Paris. We watched much of the coverage on live streaming, but only attended one event in person - the equestrian jumping final for the gold at Versailles. Everything was very well organized, with free transport from the train station, very good food on site, and a respectful crowd - for the most part. I was a bit disappointed when American Laura Kraut (my Olympic heroine still competing at age 59!) had her nearly perfect round spoiled when the crowd made a huge noise as her horse approached the last fence. Spooked, it took down the rails.
Overall, it was a difficult course with jumps as high as 165 cm (5'4") and spreads as wide as 190 cm (6'2"). If you look closely, you will see an amusing theme, as most of the jumps are inspired by Parisian landmarks like the metro entrances and Pont Alexandre III. Two riders were "unhorsed" when their mounts refused, but luckily both they and their horses seemed to be unhurt. Out of 30 riders, only three had clear rounds, so they took the medals. It was an exciting day, a unique and beautiful venue, and we were very glad we went.
Overall, it was a difficult course with jumps as high as 165 cm (5'4") and spreads as wide as 190 cm (6'2"). If you look closely, you will see an amusing theme, as most of the jumps are inspired by Parisian landmarks like the metro entrances and Pont Alexandre III. Two riders were "unhorsed" when their mounts refused, but luckily both they and their horses seemed to be unhurt. Out of 30 riders, only three had clear rounds, so they took the medals. It was an exciting day, a unique and beautiful venue, and we were very glad we went.
80th year commemoration for nine American airmen shot down near Lonlay l'Abbaye
A dream of reaching back into World War II history. In the most moving moment of the year, Mayor Derouet welcomed a contingent of American family members who are related to the nine airmen who perished 80 years earlier on August 8, 1944 when their B-17, the Chow-hound, was shot down by the Germans in a field close to our village.
The speeches were heartfelt, and it was dramatic to hear the Star-Spangled Banner and the Marseillaise played, one right after another.
The speeches were heartfelt, and it was dramatic to hear the Star-Spangled Banner and the Marseillaise played, one right after another.
In addition to the American relatives, several dozen Air Force National Guard members (514th Mobility Wing) came from New Jersey just for this ceremony.
Joseph and I had a chance to speak with some of the service members at a reception afterward and with relatives of the fallen airmen. We let them all know how much their presence meant to us and to the people of the village.
Joseph and I had a chance to speak with some of the service members at a reception afterward and with relatives of the fallen airmen. We let them all know how much their presence meant to us and to the people of the village.
Among the Americans we met was a fellow named Marc Dimon, who apparently helped to organize the commemoration; a lovely woman whose name I missed, who is related to Sgt. Treece of the Chow-hound; Bruce Brittain, who has written a book about the Chow-hound and the missions undertaken by the brave airmen who flew that B-17, Mr. Brittain's brothers, and also three granddaughters of Sgt. Gillies of the Chow-hound.
Sgt. Gillies' relatives have been to Lonlay before. Joseph spoke with the husband of one of Sgt. Gillies' granddaughters who had persuaded him to come with her this time. He told Joseph that she said, "You just can't imagine it. You have to be there."
I was fortunate too to have a moment to meet Mme Pellerin, a woman who was only a 10 year old girl when she saw the plane go down in the field near her family farm. At 90, she is still very spry. The relatives of the American airmen told us that she hiked out into the field that morning with them all. Remarkable.
You can see more entries about the event on the village's facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/lonlaylabbaye/?locale=fr_FR
And more information about the Chow-hound and the continuing bond between the Americans and the people of Lonlay l'Abbaye here:
https://www.afhmus.org/the-story-of-the-b17-chow-hound/
Normandy remembers.
Sgt. Gillies' relatives have been to Lonlay before. Joseph spoke with the husband of one of Sgt. Gillies' granddaughters who had persuaded him to come with her this time. He told Joseph that she said, "You just can't imagine it. You have to be there."
I was fortunate too to have a moment to meet Mme Pellerin, a woman who was only a 10 year old girl when she saw the plane go down in the field near her family farm. At 90, she is still very spry. The relatives of the American airmen told us that she hiked out into the field that morning with them all. Remarkable.
You can see more entries about the event on the village's facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/lonlaylabbaye/?locale=fr_FR
And more information about the Chow-hound and the continuing bond between the Americans and the people of Lonlay l'Abbaye here:
https://www.afhmus.org/the-story-of-the-b17-chow-hound/
Normandy remembers.
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